This is a blog post referencing an old Lineone webspace page I made ages ago. The reason I'm posting it up on my blog is I can't edit the old pages.
Lineone was taken over many times and I can't re-activate the
quigger webpages.
So if you have an issue with you heater blower (or fan) on a VW Corrado or VW Golf maybe the help pages below will allow you to sort it yourself.
tqv
Credit to original page:
http://website.lineone.net/~quigger/heater.htm
Does you fan blower motor work on setting 4 only and not work on settings 1, 2 and 3?
[This could only be for up to '92 model years?] see note from Amit at end?
The motor is OK (although maybe a bit tired, see note at end). The resistor pack which controls the speed of the fan blower motor is also OK (quoted by others to be c. £60 to replace from VW).
It's only a thermal fuse that has blown which is about 80 pence from Maplin or the like. (see point 9)
Repair Instructions:
1.
The fan blower motor and the resistor pack/thermal fuse are located behind the passenger side knee shelf. Remove the three screws in the shelf and the two screws on the centre console.
2.
Remove the shelf.
3.
The fan blower motor and its casing are now easily seen.
4.
The fan blower motor and casing can be removed to make access to the resistor pack easier. Unclip the black multi-connector block. Then the motor and casing just needs to be rotated slightly and dropped out. However you need to 'free' a little locating tab first.
5.
Fan blower motor casing removed.
6.
Once the fan motor and casing is removed, it is easy to locate the resistor pack. It is the shiny metal plate that the multi-connector was joined to. The resistor pack is removed from the casing by unclipping the tab at the top and swinging the plate out and down. Remove the two spade end connectors (remembering which side is which) and then free the resistor pack completely from the casing.
7.
If you want you can remove the fan blower motor from its casing. The motor will likely be dusty and can be cleaned up. The state of the motor brushes can just about be seen but not very easily.
8.
Once the resistor pack has been removed, the thermal fuse is the silver component with the white pointy end. It is crimped at one end and soldered at the other. Unsolder one end and cut the other end off nearest the crimp. Either 'crimp' a new thermal fuse or solder. See picture of badly soldered replacement fuse.
9.
Pack of thermal fuses.
Replacement is a reverse of the removal procedure.
Notes:
The fuse blown is a symptom but perhaps not the cause!
My car is a 92 and I think the motor is a bit tired/sluggish or has poor bushes and thus draws more current when the motor tries to run. Audible signs are squeaking and un-smooth running sounds. This could create a higher current draw, increasing the temp in the resistor pack and thus blowing the fuse?
MAPLIN
http://www.maplin.co.uk/
Maplins have a 184-degree C breaking point thermal fuse (RA19V). Check this part number with them though as I sourced mine from work! I guess the carriage would be more than the cost at Maplins!
----- Original Message -----
From: Amit
To: Jason Hughes
Sent: Wednesday, November 06, 2002 10:18 AM
Subject: Re: CORRADO-UK FAQ
> Hi Jason,
>
> great write up mate. Very suprised it didn't make The sprinter.
>
> I had a similar prob with mine, fan only worked on speed 1 and 4. I
> went out and bought the thermal fuse but before fitting it I was
> recommended to take a look at my heater blower knob (its a '94 model
> so has the rotary knob as oppose to the slider).
>
> Under the knob there is a copper plate which rotates when the knob is
> turned. Basically this copper plate had become loose over time and
> was no longer completing the circuit. Very hard to explain without
> visualising it, but when you see it its very easy. I coppergreased it
> up and bent it slighty and it worked. Quite a few others have had
> this problem too, might be an idea to make a note of this on the your
> page.
>
> Cheers
>
> Amit
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